MOB Modifications

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Come on people, I know you're tricking those Marauders out! Send me those mods!

Fubarius has posted very detailed mods at the Brass Eagle Owners Group. For your convenience, and with his kind permission, and am reposting them here at MOB. I'm even giving him his own page! Click HERE for details on installing a regulator or expansion chamber, adding a bottomline, and more!


Basically it's just a 1/4" to 1/8" NPT reducer force threaded into the valve plug hole with an elbow on it. You'll want to slighty stretch your valve spring, about 1/8" , to fill the extra volume this will give your valve. Expect velocity increases of 15-20 fps. Even though you are probably making a good seal when you force the reducer in (but don't overdo it!), use teflon tapes as you would on all joints. The tricky part is that you have to shave down the plastic under the barrel threads to get the adaptor on with the elbow in it. I had to go until I saw brass with the elbow I have on it. Also, make sure the stem on your gauge is long enough to screw in without hitting the gun. The brass object sitting on the gun body in this pic is another reducer, not that the pic shows it well... here are a few more fuzzy pics...

Coming soon! (Maybe....)


I added a Raptor vertical adaptor (UPDATE: You can use the ASA from a Talon CA adaptor kit and get a 4 oz tank too for the same price!), CMI regulator (with the gauge removed and the gauge hole plugged, since I already have a gauge mounted), and a random expansion chamber from my toolbox. I used macroline fittings to keep the look clean. I did have to drill out the bottomline output slightly, the retap it for 1/8" NPT.

See what happens when I get bored???

Materials: Electric drill Drill bit, should be very small, I used 1/16. You can use a slightly bigger one, though. Screw/Nail/something similar, same size as drill bit. Rubber band(optional)
1: Look on the side of the gun with the cocking screw. Take out the pin connecting the grip frame to the body. Look right above and a little above and to the right of the safety button. Pull the trigger back and forth, you should be able to see where you can put an object to block the trigger from going up too far.
2: Take the drill and drill a small hole, just far enough down that there is still a bit of plastic above it, and far enough up so you do not keep the trigger hitting the sear all the time. You don't have much of a space to drill, you've gotta be careful. To keep the trigger(the part of it inside the gun) out of the way of the drilling, you can use a rubber band to hold it back.
3: Put the screw/nail/similar object into the hole, to see how long it needs to be, and then cut it down to size. Put it back in, and you are done.


I had a big scenario game coming up and I wanted to be able to field a German MG 42 machine gun, so I visited Home Depot, Big Lots, and Wal~Mart. I took the guts of a 12 volt air-compressor, some 1/4'' poplar scant, a length of PVC pipe, and a variable potentiometer and went to work. After I studied the specs of the real-life MG 42 I made a pattern and cut the frame. All I really did was make a big costume for my gun. I put bolts through where the strip pins were and made sure that everything sat in tight. I then made a barrel shroud out of PVC and fit a length of 1/2'' CPVC to the original barrel. By adjusting the potentiometer (basically a dimmer switch) you can control the rate of fire and slow the cyclic rate so that you don't chop balls. I mounted the plunder from the air compressor against two screws on the trigger and attached it with a rubber-band so that you can do both semi and full-auto modes. There is a bipod folded up under the barrel shroud.

1.Shorten bolt and hammer travel.
The stock marauder has too much bolt and hammer travel which will sometimes make it double feed when it blows back, so all you do is add another bumper, it will also make it easier on your sear. But make sure the bumper lets the hammer catch the sear. And fire rate will also me increased.

2.Feed porting.
I have a black maxx and I noticed a little hole about 2mm wide at the underside of the side feed, that hole helps vent blow-back gas and lets the ball drop into the chamber faster. So drill a 2mm in the side feed at the bottom so the elbow does not cover it.

3. Interlocking pull pin rings.
Take the pull pins out and interlock the rings together like a keychain and keep both pins on one side of the marauder. This allows you to pull both pins out at the same time. It will also keep rings from dangling on your hand.


All you need is a metal rod thick enough to not bend easily, but thin enough that it can be bent with a vise and tools. Just bend the sucker like I did (see pics), slightly dremel open the vertical hole at the back of the bolt (where the rod drops in), drill a hole in the back plug, bend the end for a handle, and stick a little rubber cap on the end. Later, I'll cut the back down and thread it, then screw on a nicer handle. Also, I still need to cover the cocking slot.

Sorry that the pics suck so bad right now... Here are a few more pics...


OK, all you need is a few tools, a piece of 8-32 threaded rod, and the drawer handle of your choice. In this case I chose the cheapest one they had that was the right color for my gun, since this is still in development. I'll replace it with a better looking knob later. My cost for materials (the rod was 3' long) was $3 with tax. Before you buy the materials, make sure the rod will thread into the knob. I believe 8-32 is standard for knobs, but save yourself the trouble and check first.

Drill a hole in your bolt, slightly smaller than the rod diameter, all the way through to the middle hole on the bolt. Carefully thread the rod into the plastic. Stop just before the end of the rod gets to where the pin from the hammer comes up. Drill a matching hole, just a little wider, in the upper part of the plug. Don't cut the rod yet! Now slide the bumper over the rod and COMPLETELY reassemble the gun. Make sure the bolt is fully forward, then cut the rod so that the knob is close to (but not touching) the plug when forward, but doesn't hit the lower section of the plug.

Note that this bolt was previously modded for my original rear cocking mod. DO NOT notch the back of the bolt! It's probably a good idea to grind down the threads of the rod where they will move back and forth in the plug, and you might consider opening up the rearmost bolt hole enough that you can put a nut in there to ensure that the rod won't come out if the threading tries to strip. Also, I used teflon tape to make the threads a little more snug for the knob. You may want to try that or use some non permanent loctite. I'll keep you all posted on my durability tests.

LunaticDirtbika's Trigger Stop

You'll need a bolt at least 1 inch long and two nuts to fit it, along with a drill bit slightly larger than the bolt. First, you'll need to take out your trigger. Next, drill a hole behind the trigger in the grip frame. Now just take off the grip and install the bolt like the picture shows.

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